Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Chanel Jacket: Part 3: Fitting with the professionals

I wasn’t feeling confident about the idea of cutting out my Chanel jacket last night so I brought my muslin to work for some professional fit advice. The fact that I haven’t done so before now is kind of amazing considering I work for a jacket manufacturer and my closest coworkers are tech designers and pattern makers, whom I have told all about this project. One of my lovely cubicle buddies helped me fine tune my muslin and has promised to help me re-evaluate after I make the adjustments to the muslin.

These next pattern adjustments will include:

  • Lowering the armhole ½” (1/2” higher than the original pattern) on one side, and back to the original a/h on the other side for comparison.
  • Letting out the side seams ¼” each for an added 1" circumference
  • Letting out the sleeve seams 1/8” at the bicept for an added ¼” ease
  • Reducing the shoulder seam length ¼”
  • Reducing the cross back ¼” on each back armhole
  • Pinching out and transferring excess armhole ease to the shoulder princess seam.


I’m feeling good about these adjustments. Wish me luck!

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Reality Check

Recent FOs
  •  Friendship bracelet (swap); Not sure how long it should be, but I made it 6" long plus ties. I’m supposed to mail to my swap partner in Australia tomorrow. I finally have a reason to mail something for personal reasons to another country! I am so tickled, it’s silly. 
  • Slim line T-shirt; This is a procrastination/instant gratification project that I cut out Thursday and whacked out on Saturday. The pattern is by Angela Kane and is supplemented by her newest video series. I love her videos. They are a bit long because she doesn't edit away the majority of the working steps. You see her go through every step, and during the processes she mentions a lot of handy tips that probably wouldn't make it into a shorter video. I've gleaned a lot from watching her work. Plus, her voice is so soothing and encouraging. I used a 100% cotton XL t-shirt from MM that he didn’t wear because it had a pocket (I unpicked the pocket, ha!) I used the original shoulder seams, neck binding, sleeve seams and sleeve hem, so all I needed to do was serge the side seams & set the sleeves. Because the t-shirt was so long it turned out more like a t-shirt mini-dress. It's perfect for hanging out around the house in. I had my BF try it on for size and I think the shape is a bit to slim in the shoulders and the armholes a bit deep for his liking. I 'll try out the classic t-shirt next for him. 
Current WIPS (that I have worked on in the last week)
  •  Knit nautical top (franken-knit from a this pattern); 85% complete – just need to finish the front. So close to done that I am almost completely bored. I CANNOT start another knit/crochet project until this is wearable.
  • Raglan sleeve t-shirt; Burdastyle 01/2011 120. Cotton cashmere rib knit - I've had this cut out for months but finishing the sleeve hems came first and my twin needle has been very very finicky and that honestly killed my sewing mojo. Last night I got it out and made it work. Assembling the rest of it was quick and all that is left now is the hem. 
  •  Chanel Jacket; the muslin is done. I need to finish refining the pattern and then cut out the fashion fabric. For the first time in my life I am terrified of cutting fabric and am procrastinating with the above and below items. I have been telling myself to get on with it for a week now and I find myself making excuses to do other things instead, like the above mentioned recent FO's.
Desperate Start-itis (things I am forbidden to start until one or more of the above are done) 
  • Another tiny pocket tank (#3) with slight FBA. Loud floral rayon up-cycle!
  •  Lion Brand Mesh Raglan Pullover. I have the yarn! It was frogged from another desperately ill-begotten project (crochet bathmat… yeah… BATHMAT) I must redeem the yarn. I also need to get it off the floor of my craft cave where it taunts me.
  • Tiger Lily Tank by Lion Brand. Yarn was on sale, it was a heat wave, I am weak, and I still want to knit it.
  • Bombshell dress (Burdastyle/Craftsy/Gretchen Hirsch). I totally impulse bought this course since. Who knows how long that sale price will last!? It was the promise of FBA handholding for that bustier that did it, and the thought that I could look like Joan Holloway at a barbeque by my birthday if I start NOW.
Feeling overwhelmed and I haven’t even mentioned my UFOs.

Hand Rolled Scarves - Hermes

I would love to try this technique. I have some paneled fabrics in my stash and a few scarf sized silk pieces that I painted for my textile painting class. 
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